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Food culture

Gnocchi: a history much older than the potato

Soft little dumplings that became emblematic of Italian cooking, gnocchi existed long before potatoes reached Europe.

Artisan gnocchi ready to cook at Pasta Piemonte in Menton

Before the potato

Food historians note that preparations called gnocchi were part of Italian culinary traditions long before potatoes became common. Medieval cooks were already making small dumplings from water and flour, alongside other versions made with different ingredients.

Gnocchi served with sauce and cheese
Photo : Marine Neglot

The potato changes the recipe

Native to the Andes, the potato reached Europe in the sixteenth century and was adopted as food only gradually. When potato became part of gnocchi dough, it did not invent the idea of gnocchi; it transformed an older family of preparations and gave them a particularly tender texture.

A Northern Italian tradition

The word gnocco still describes many regional preparations. Treccani identifies potato gnocchi with, among others, Venetian, Piedmontese and Roman traditions. Flours, proportions, shapes and sauces vary from one local cuisine to another.

Technique matters as much as the recipe

Light gnocchi depend on the balance between potato and flour: too much flour makes them firm, too little can make them fragile. Ridging increases the surface that can hold a sauce. At Pasta Piemonte we prepare them in our Menton workshop in the spirit of this simple artisan tradition.

Sources & references

Sources used for this page: Treccani, entry “gnocco”; Massimo Montanari’s work on food history and medieval uses of gnocchi; FAO material on the journey of the potato from the Andes to Europe.